ONAM: SAVOURING THE BEST OF KERALA
God's own country is a tourist’s dream destination. Unlike other tourist destinations,
Kerala, does not limit visitors with "seasons". Every season here is
tourist season and Kerala offers something worthwhile depending upon, what one
is looking for. Awash in green after lavish monsoons, Kerala is at its pristine best in August. This is often marketed as the beginning of
the tourist season that stretches
well into March, when the summer starts.
Onam, the festival unique
to Kerala, normally falls in the August -September period. It is
celebrated all over the state with gaiety and colour and showcases local art,
culture and traditions. Though its origins are deep rooted in Hindu beliefs, Onam
is celebrated by Malayalees all over the world, beyond religions and socio-political
divides, making it a truly unifying experience. Though events and traditions associated with
Onam may vary from place
to place, each one is spectacular in its own right. For an explorer, the
difficulty is in making the choice, for there is so much to choose from.
The Legend
According to the legend, Emperor Mahabali ruled Kerala in a manner that Heavens
became envious. All the Gods then approached Lord Vishnu to do the needful. One
day, as The Emperor finished his prayers, Lord Vishnu appeared as Vamana
(Dwarf), and asked for alms. Kindness personified, the ruler permitted the dwarf to ask anything he
wanted. Vamana asked just for three feet
of land to stand and pray. The Emperor readily agreed. He immediately grew up, big
enough to measure the whole universe in two steps and asked for place to keep the
third step. The Emperor, true to his word, bowed down and showed his head. Vamana,
with his feet drove down the Emperor into the netherworld. However, before he
went down, Emperor Mahabali secured the rights to visit his subjects every
year. Malayalees irrespective of cast, creed, faith and place they are at,
welcome their beloved Emperor, believed to be visiting his empire during Onam.
Onam Activities
Visitors, associate "Sadya" (The feast) and “Vallam Kali” (Boat
Race), with Onam. Beyond these, two well-advertised events, there are many
traditional events associated with Onam. The prominent ones, to name a few, are
"Athachamayam", "Kummattikali", "Ona–Thallu", “Pakida-kali” "Pookkalam", "Puli-Kali", "Thiruvathira
Kali", “Thumbi- Thullal" and “Uri-Adi”. Over a period of time, these
events have evolved as local and regional competitions, sponsored and funded
for commercial gains.
Atha-Chamayam. "Atha-Chamayam"
literally means "decking up-on Atham", Atham being the first of the
ten- day onam period. This event formally marks the commencement of onam festivities.
Across the state, on Atham day, people create intricate floral arrangements in
front of their houses or courtyards to welcome Mahabali. This practice
continues for the next ten days. Traditionally, "Oonjaal" (swing) is also installed on Atham. Athachamayam is celebrated on a grand scale
at Thripunithara, not very
far away from Kochi. The colourful ceremony is a curtain raiser
to the ensuing mega celebrations. The origins of this event go back to the
times of Kochi Royalty. Those days the King himself, in all his royal pomp,
took part in the procession accompanied by the Christian priest of the
Karingachira church, the Maulavi from Nettur mosque and the village elder to
represent the fisher community. The event has evolved into a cultural feast
under the stewardship of the local municipal Council. This is one event that a
tourist with interests in traditional art forms must never miss. Almost all
forms of traditional folk art are on display during this function. Feast to the
eyes, Athachamayam is a window to the rich heritage of the most literate state
of India.
"Sadya" (The Feast)
Traditionally, "Sadya" is a two-course vegetarian
lunch consisting, normally of about 24 dishes served on a banana leaf. At places, the number could swell to 64. However, all dishes can be
clubbed under 3 major heads, “Choru” (Boiled Rice), "Koottan" (Add-ons)
and “Madhuram” (Deserts). The first course is an endless supply of boiled rice
served along with an amazing range of traditional vegetarian dishes making up
the phenomenal numbers to fill the entire banana leaf. These dishes are collectively
called "Koottan". “Madhuram” consists of an endless supply of “Payasams”,
normally three varieties which could go up to as much as seven.
The traditional sadya is a family affair, where
family members sit together on the mats laid on the floor and partake the
sumptuous lunch. The lunch is traditionally served first to the males and
children of the house, followed by the women folk sitting together to eat. The
interesting part of the feast besides the number of items on the banana leaf is
a manner in which the banana leaf is laid on the ground and the specific
location assigned to each item being served. Interestingly, table salt is also one item of the menu. Though one may use the
salt if required, the traditionally intended purpose is to keep the evil eye
away from the household. In some households, one leaf with all the ingredients
is kept near a lighted lamp.
Depending upon the family belief, it could either be for the departed souls,
Emperor Mahabali, the unseen guest. Some households also serve
it as an offering to Ganapati, the Hindu God. In some houses this offering may
be just a pinch of salt on the banana leaf as salt is central to existence and
thus symbolising offering everything to God.
Although almost all hotels and restaurants across Kerala serve sadya during onam, Home-stays may be a better
destination for more authentic sadya. However, if one has a Malayalee
friend, an opportunity to be at his or her place on “Thiru-onam” for lunch must
never be lost. Besides enjoying the traditional Malayalee hospitality,
sitting next to the family elder, one can partake in a lunch of a lifetime.
Vallam Kali (Boat Race)
While boat
racing exists all over the world, the ones in Kerala are spectacularly
different. Kerala is a land of backwaters, rivers and lakes that host boat races
of various kinds. Out of all such races, the ones that have captured
international fame are Nehru Trophy at Alleppey, Aranmula , Champakulam and Payippad.
Each of these boat races is associated with a legend that locals hold in
great reverence. While some of the races may be linked directly to onam, others
are conducted based on the Malayalam calendar. Widely publicised, heavily
subscribed, and fiercely contested, these races are unique to Kerala. In fact, beats
of countless drums and songs and cheering spectators become part of the crescendo that fuels the
contestants. The experience of being part of the
spectators’ gallery is itself exhilarating and worth treasuring.
Kummattikali A traditional form
of dance, mostly prevalent in the northern districts of Kerala is performed by individuals wearing
colourful painted wooden masks and skirts made out of
grass and leaves. Performances are based on recitals from Hindu mythology like
Ramayana, Mahabharata or even local folklore. Dancers perform to the beats of
the “Ona-Villu”, a locally made bow -like instrument, the string of which is
strummed upon to make a rhythm. Kummattikali is a free-flowing art form and
artists can be seen performing in front of houses or even street corners. Being
present in Kerala at the time of onam provides the visitor with a fair chance
of seeing this performance more than once.
Thiruvathira Kali (Dance on Thiruvathira Day). This is an elegant form of dance normally performed by ladies. This traditional art form, devoid
of "Bhavas and Mudras” inherent to other forms of dance, is characterised
by beautiful, gentle harmonious body movements accompanied by claps that set
the rhythm for the performance. The graceful performance would normally have
participants themselves reciting lyrics that are taken from Hindu mythology,
songs in praise of Mahabali or a local folklore. Also known as “Kai-kotti Kali” (“Kai-Kottu”, means claps and “Kali” means Dance), this dance is traditionally staged
during onam. Participants are normally attired in the traditional “Mundu”
(Dhoti) and “Neriyathu” (The upper piece) with their hair adorned with jasmine
flowers. They dance around the “Pookkalam” (Floral Arrangement) at the center
of which, is the traditional lamp called “Nila Vilakku”. Pookkalam, is an intricate floral arrangement laid out, afresh every day,
either in the courtyard or any other prominent place, to welcome Mahabali. In
some places especially North Kerala, there is a custom of keeping a vessel
filled with water in the Pookkalam and at the end of the day, as the flowers are
removed, the water is poured back into the well. It is believed that on any one
out of the thirty days, the water would be divinely transformed into “Amrit”, the
nectar of life. Captivating,
this is one performance that the tourist must seek out to enjoy
Ona–Thallu
Also known as “Avittam- Thallu” (“Avittam”
is a day that follows Onam, and “Thallu” means beating or fighting) and Kayyam
kali” (“Kayyam” the word originates from “Kai” means hands and “Kali” means
Game), it is a martial game involving physical combat between two individuals.
Believed to have originated from the times of Zamorin of Kozhikode, it is
played out in commemoration of the numerous battles waged by the Nair Community
of Kerala. The event involves two individuals actually
grappling, fist fighting and beating up each other till one is pinned down to
the ground. Besides the two individuals, the spectators actually take sides and
cheer their fighter. Though, in earlier times the winner was respected and
given a wide berth in the village, nowadays, it is played out merely as a
sporting event. While there may be such games all over the world, Onathallu is
unique to Kerala. One who is in Kerala during onam must try and be part of the
cheering crowd to enjoy what is truly a traditional martial event
Pakida kali. A combination of chess and dice, this is
considered similar to the game of dice mentioned in Mahabharata. The game has a
set of columns (cells) in which the Pakida moves as per the fall of the dice.
Though the game is played between two teams comprising of two individuals, the involvement
of the onlookers who take sides should be seen to be believed. A game mostly
patronised in the village areas, an explorer must actually seek to find the
venue and realise unwittingly how one becomes a part of the game.
Puli-Kali. (“Puli”,
means Tiger and “Kali” means play) A traditional folk performance specific to
Kerala, this is mostly performed on the fourth day of onam. Group of individuals
painted like tigers and hunters dance to the beats of local instruments like “Udukku”,
“Thukil” or even Chenda, enacting hunting scenes. Believed to have originated
from the time of Maharaja Raman Varma Shakthan Thampuran of Kochi, this traditional form of performance has evolved over a period of time. In
olden times, individuals actually painted themselves as tigers but in the
modern versions one can find both fully painted individuals as well as those
with costumes. Thrissur is considered the best place to watch this event since
a larger number of troops converge at this place.
Thumbi- Thullal. Literally meaning “Dance
of the Butterfly”, there are different versions of this traditional art, depending
upon the locality or community organising the event. Irrespective of the version
there would be one central player who is considered to be the butterfly who
acts, dances and others who either sit and sing or sing and dance around the
central player. The theme and tempo of the event is dictated by the
lyrics. The female version is pleasing and sober to the eyes since it is
accompanied by melodious recital and graceful movements. In order to enjoy the
performance, it is advisable to get hold of the lyrics prior to witnessing the
performance.
Uri-Adi. A very interesting game, normally played on
the day of the onam under the aegis of the local community organisations, this event can actually rivet spectators for a long time. The game revolves
around an individual's effort to break an “Uri” (Earthen pot hung from a rope
manipulated by an operator who skillfully lowers, raises and swings the “Uri”
so that it is not broken. Many variations of this game exist. In one such variation
the player is blindfolded and in another the player is subjected to a
continuous barrage of water thrown from different sides by people. Depending
upon the patronage prize-money can vary. Irrespective
of the variation, it is absorbing fun to watch the game.
Uniqueness of Onam
While onam has Hindu mythology and traditions accompanying its celebration,
what makes it truly unifying, interesting and unique is that, people from all
walks of life irrespective of their faith, belief and socio-economic conditions,
come together to enjoy themselves in an atmosphere of fun frolic and
friendship.
